I find freedom in movement, in nature, through new experiences. Freedom has the qualities of spontaneity, passion, flow, adventure, risk, independence and creativity. It’s about expressing myself creatively, doing what matters most, and the power of play. Freedom comes from embracing our truth, or in the words of Persian mystic and poet Hafiz, “letting the soul unfurl our wings”.
I’ve always believed surfing is an amazing tool for a mindfulness practice. It’s very much about mindfulness-in-movement. If I truly get into why I surf, it’s because we can enter this heightened state of awareness – a flow state where, if even just for a moment, there’s complete focus and immersion in the present. I like to think of surfing as more like water-dancing. There’s a quote by T.S. Elliot, “at the still point, there the dance is”, about how we can find our stillness in movement. The peak experience of wave-riding is this moment.
Surfing helps me understand the meaning of connection. Surfing demands a letting go of expectations and requires our total presence in the moment so that we begin to take notice of our surroundings, to be a little awed and humbled through direct contact with nature. It’s as if the salt water literally dissolves the worries/fears that we carry on land / barriers we put up within ourselves and the world outside, and we are no longer separate but a part of it all. Connection has the qualities of presence, curiosity, gratitude, understanding. It givesour passion a sense of purpose.
Surfing can help us better connect with who we are, with each other, and our environment.
“We must gently prepare to return to where we came from, just as waves quickly dissolve in the ocean. Then there are no more boundaries. Only connections.” – Christophe André.