The award winning Irish documentary film WAVERIDERS will be on cinema release throughout Ireland & UK on April 3rd 2009. Soo exciting!
WAVERIDERS has also just won Best Feature Documentary at the IFTAs (Irish Film & Television Academy Awards, like BAFTAs) and Best Sound www.ifta.ieIt was premiered last month at the Santa Barbara Film Festival after when the Audience Choice Award at the Dublin Film Festival
Easkey stars in the film as the only female surfing representative and it tells the story about her first tow-in session at the Cliffs of Moher, making history as the first woman to do so, along with interviews and surfing footage.
The movie also shows surifng legend and 9 times world champion Kelly Slater first surf in Ireland at Easkey with Easkey!
Check out an interview with Easkey about her experience on the set of Waveriders…
Making the Film
Watching the movie for the first time on the big screen I got a different perspective of surfing in Ireland and a deeper appreciation for what it’s all about. This journey has made me realise how unique the Irish surf culture is and important we keep it that way. The film may make it look like everything slipped into place and the sea gods fully co-operated offering up waves on cue but it takes a lot of planning to get everything to revolve round the surfing. It takes a lot of organising to be there when the waves are there. A regular schedule goes out the window and you are often at the mercy of Manannan.
Ireland is not a typical surfing destination and is a unique and special place. It has a wild, untamed rugged coastline with endless potential for discovering magic waves but it is that very wildness that makes it so unpredictable and fickle. It takes time, patience and luck to find its treasures. It is a country that has been shaped by the ocean; the landscape, the history, the culture and the people have all been shaped by the ocean. And there is a lot of respect in the line-up. Surfing here is sacred. Surfers coming here have to be patient and put in the time to get the waves, do their own searching. It’s different to anywhere else.
Relationship with other surfers
One of the most special moments for me had to be a surf session where I met a King of the ocean. The wave was firing below and the ruins of a castle, perfect and fun. This King and I shared the same pasion and stoke, we felt the magic of the place, running across the reef and jumping into the sea. A double ocean arched across the sky and into the sea. The stoke we shared that day had nothing to do with achievements or contests, ability or talent. It was just that same energy that pulsed through the ocean, pulsing through us. That was Kelly Slater’s first surf in Ireland and my first surf with him at Easkey, my namesake wave.
My first tow-in session at the Cliffs was also another stand-out. The feeling of comraderie amongst everyone, the team-work and sharing of big-wave knowledge. The Malloy Brother encourageing me to get out there and my friend Dylan Stott pulling me into my first wave…
Relationship with surfing
It’s amazing how surfing just captures so many people and they can’t do anything about it. It gets me. It’s a sport, it’s lifestyle, its an artform. Those who do it forever are those who are wrapped up in all three. I never realized what a big impact one wave could have on my life and my surfing. I didn’t think about any of that at the time, it was all a new sensation and totally exhilarating experience for me towing into my first wave at a place as powerful and beautiful as the Cliffs. And I feel its only been made possible by the women who have gone before me, the women today who are continuing to push the limits of their being. Like Maya Gabeira at Teahupoo and Sarah Gerhardt at Mavericks. Its inspirational to see other women in their element in what for so long has been thought of as a wholly male domain. When in fact women have been charging for a very long time…since surfing began in Polynesia and legend tells how the Tahitian princess Vinehine became the first person to ride hell-wave Teahupoo. It is exciting to see a reawakening of female grace and power in all aspects of surfing.
Drew Kampion’s idea of the surfer’s vision. Please could you discuss, if or how you can relate to this personally?
“Surfers because they are exposed to the wild, have something that most of society has lost. Most of society is completely cut off from the wild, completely cut off from the natural world. They live in climate controlled automobiles or offices or houses or whatever they are. In this day and age where you have such fractured societies – who is there more prepared and more globalised and more integrated into the natural world and the global community than surfers?”
I think WB Yeats also captures the surfers vision that Drew Kampion talks about, ‘Come away o human child to the waters and the wild.’ Surfing is like a calling. I feel at home when I am in the sea. It’s wildness and unpredictability are what attracts me to it. Surfing strips you down to your raw self. Surfers tap into the earth’s energy waves and ride them, as if the wave, the ocean, the earth is expressing itself through the surfer. It is a powerful, pure, elemental force that strips away all the so-called needs and wants and worries of everyday life. It brings us back to ourselves, back to where it all began, the ocean.