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Tamed by the leen and keen for more

Feel like I need a new body. Totally surfed out, a strange and amazing feeling after a long, slow, cold winter.

The first day into the New Year and I got to break out the big guns. Climbed down Ireland’s highest cliffs in the pre-dawn dark with all our surf gear. That goat path is mental, actually glad I couldn’t see the big drop-off on the way down!

I paddled out below the Cliffs of Moher, stoked to share some waves with good friends and real chargers, my first paddle session at Aileens.

All going good until I tried to scrape over a set wave and it sucked me back over the falls. The board tombstoned for ages and I couldn’t believe the beat down such a beautiful wave can give you. I eventually came up gulping air to see Ferg’s lovely 7’8, he so kindly let me ride, in two pieces. Rest of the set landed on me and even what was left of the board  tombstoned, dragging me under and sweeping me towards the foot of the cliffs. It was a hard swim out of there, trying to get back over the slab and avoid being swept into the boulders and facing a long swim back out around the line-up.

I was gutted about the board, and not getting the chance to get more waves. She left me humbled and hungry for more. But as Ferg says it takes time, experience and patience. This was an important step on my way to getting to know her – a fearsome, fascinating wave that has me under her spell now.

Will be getting a ‘Cliffs gun’ shaped very soon me thinks, and I owe you one Ferg!

The climb back up after the session was a serious leg burner.

As a friend said to me, it’s good to be ‘tamed by the leen and keen for more.’ Not a bad start, loving 2011 already!

Photos by Roo McCrudden; www.roomccrudden.com

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