I always get asked about my name, it’s odd I know, but it says a lot about who I am. Its origins are the Irish for fish, ‘iascaigh.’ It’s also the name of my Mum and Dad’s favourite wave and where I spent my youth on family ‘surfaris’ progressing from exploring rock pools to surfing the reef breaks of Easkey.
I’ve been surfing for what feels like my whole life and I feel more at home in the sea than on land. Surfing has been a great medium to push my ability through competitions, meet new people, travel and experience new places, always learning, always growing. The ocean has a tendency to keep you humble and you are always facing the unknown, which keeps you on your toes and the excitement pumping. Being a surfer in Ireland is not quite as glamorous as Blue Crush made it out to be in Hollywood, all bikinis and palm trees. It’s not easy getting up for dawn-patrol in the cold depths of winter with the wind howling and the rest of the world tucked up nice and warm in their beds, but surfing just feels natural. The feeling of being so close to that power is a necessity for me, like food for the soul. Its wildness and unpredictability are what attracts me to it. For me, getting in the water strips away all the so-called needs and wants and worries…I try to live in the present, push myself as hard as I can and launch myself at every wave that comes my way.
Learning to surf as a kid was a youth well spent, and I still feel like a kid! That’s why I’m stoked to be a part of the NDC’s Milk It For All It’s Worth campaign and share the love of surfing and keeping your body healthy. There’s a chance to share some of the stoke with a great surfboard competition on the Milk It For All It’s Worth Facebook Page, https://www.facebook.com/milkitndc. It’s the last week to be in with a chance to win a surfboard signed by myself! So ‘Surf Big’, log-in and enter the competition. And don’t forget to fuel up for the next surf session with some great tips on the Milk It website, www.milkit.ie.