Ireland’s surf film festival, Shore Shots, was a turning point in a lot of ways. The organisers chased hard to secure the big-wave surfing documentary, The Wave I Ride, filmed
As cold-waters surfers, what attracts us to those hard edges and wild elements? For me, I feel cold water is the ultimate leveller. It strips us of all our pretence,
Reflections and intentions – the letting go of the old, what no longer serves us well, and making space or the new, for future possibilities to emerge. It was an
At dawn, when you have trouble getting out of bed, tell yourself: “I have to go to work – as a human being. What do I have to complain of,
It wasn’t long after I saw Luc Besson’s biopic ‘The Lady’ about Burma’s Pro-Democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi and I was in the middle of reading a book called
“Willpower is what separates us from animals. It’s the capacity to restrain our impulses, resist temptation – do what’s right and good for us in the long run, not what
There are different kinds of fitness, depending on your preferred element or sport…I think from the first moment I touched water I knew I was home…riding waves, diving deep, swimming,
